If you follow us over on Instagram you’ll maybe remember that we embarked on a bit of a patio project back in the Summer months. There is still a fair way to go in making it exactly the way we would like, and we’re planning on finishing it off properly this coming Spring. The plan for this area always included making our own bespoke garden dining table, and when Ronseal got in touch recently about a Winter garden project, it was just the push we needed to actually get it done.
Winter is potentially not the season that you’d most associate with outdoor entertaining, but we’ve long been advocates of getting outside whenever possible, and are big fans of a BBQ at all times of the year. (I can burn sausages just as well in December as I can in July! 😉) I also loved the idea of being able to bring the table indoors if we need extra entertaining space in the busy season coming up. It actually turned out so beautifully that I’d be more than happy to use it permanently indoors too!
Instructions, dimensions and all products used are listed below!
4x table legs (I sourced ours online by searching for ‘Refectory Table Legs’. Just to note, these come in a variety of widths. I wanted a chunkier look, so went for 94mm width, but you can choose whatever suits the style and size of your table design.)
Timber for the table frame and top (We purchased ours from our local builders’ yard. Just be sure to use ‘treated’ timber that is suitable for outdoor use. All of the timber for framing and the table top was cut from long lengths. You can find the sizes of each piece listed below for reference!)
60mm long pozi-drive (or Philips) countersunk galvanised (or decking) screws for frame
40mm long pozi-drive (or Philips) countersunk galvanised (or decking) screws for table top
2x 100x37x600mm (4″x1 1/2″x2′) for short sides
4x 100x37x1500mm (4″x1 1/2″x5′) for long sides
6 planks x 150x22x1800mm (6″x3/4″x6′)
Brace for underside table top: 2x 150x22x650 (6″x3/4″x2’2″)
Additional bracing optional
steps to build frame:
1. Lay two legs flat on the floor and place one of the 1800mm long framing sections flat between the legs.
2. Lay an off cut from the 22mm table top cuts under the 1800mm long framing section to maintain the same depth off the front of the legs around the table.
3. Mark 3 screw positions on the framing section, approx 30mm off the face of the legs. This is the location you will use to screw the frame and the legs together.
4. Using the 60mm long screws, screw together the 1800mm long frame section, at a 30° angle from the 3 positions noted above, into the leg, making sure that the connection is secure.
5. Repeat step 4 for the adjacent side.
6. Repeat steps 1 – 5 for the other 1800mm frame section and legs.
7. With assistance, stand these two sections up and carry out steps 1 – 5 for the shorter 600mm frame sections.
8. With assistance, rotate the frame to carry out steps 1 – 5 for the final 600mm frame section.
You should now have a sturdy frame and legs for your table top!
steps to build the table top:
1. First, check each plank and make sure none are bowed or distorted. If so you will need to replace.
2. Next, see which side of each plank you want to face upwards (i.e. which side you want to be visible at the end) and mark the underside with the word ‘underside’.
3. Lay all 6 sections of 150mm wide planks on a flat surface and push tightly together, ensuring the word ‘underside’ is visible on each plank (i.e word facing upwards)
4. Lay the 650mm long brace plank onto the underside of the table top approx 1/3 along the length from each end of the table top. This brace section will be used to screw the planks together.
5. Centre this 650mm bracing plank on the width of the 6 sections so that you will be able to screw through this into each of the 6 table top planks (Note there will only be approx 20-25mm overhang on the outer 2 planks)
6. Connect all 6 sections together using the 650mm long planks and the 40mm screws (use approx 5 screws per plank – approx 30 screws per brace section)
7. For additional stability when moving during construction, you may wish to add an extra brace section right across all 6 table top planks. This only needs to be screwed to the side 2 table top planks as it will be removed before final construction.
You should now have both the table top and table frame constructed.
Sand both to remove any rough areas (particularly the table top) and to chamfer the edges of the table top and frame (to avoid splinters!)
paint and stain both the frame and top using Ronseal.
There are countless colour options in the Ronseal portfolio, but we opted for a similar colourway to our existing indoor dining table, as I really loved the consistency from indoors to out. It also means that if we ever have a big party and need extra table space, our new patio addition will look seamless in our kitchen too! I chose the White Ash Garden paint, which is a really lovely taupe/white – much more of a stone shade than a bright white. To contrast the table top, we opted for the Furniture Stain in English Oak, a gorgeous, dark, rich colour.
Ronseal recommend three coats of each, leaving four hours drying time between each one and so we did just that. Once all coats of paint were fully dry the final stage of construction could be carried out.
1. With assistance, turn the table top upside down onto a flat surface, so the unfinished side is facing upwards.
2. Remove additional long bracing (if used)
3. With assistance, turn the frame upside down onto the underside of the table top, making sure both bracing sections fit neatly within the frame.
4. Measure all corners and sides to ensure the frame is centred on the table top before any fixing is carried out. (Measure twice, fix once is a lesson we have learned over the years!)
5. Mark a number of locations (We’d recommend at least 2 per plank on the short sides and approximately 8 along the long side) about 40mm up from the underside of the table top as locations to screw the frame into the underside of the table top.
6. Using the 60mm long screws, screw together the frame section at a 30° angle from the positions noted above, into the table top, making sure that the connection is secure.
7. With assistance, lift and turn the table into the upright position.
And that’s it. Easy, huh? 😉 It honestly wasn’t too difficult, or even too time consuming at all. We had the build completed in a morning, and the final paint and stain touches within 24 hours. I’m so delighted with it and, after a very stormy few days, can absolutely confirm that the Ronseal paint and stain that we used have lived up to expectations. It looks as perfect as it did when we first moved it outdoors.
I’m already planning our first Winter BBQ, and hoping for lots more dry and crisp days in the coming months so that we can entertain outside as well as in.
** Thank you so much to Ronseal for collaborating with us on this project. As always, all images, opinions, and love of a good DIY project are entirely our own.**